Weeks 4, 5, and 6 in Oaxaca
Wandering in the Zócalo
My last chunk of my time in Oaxaca was fascinating. I spent about half of the time in a nearby village called Teotitlán del Valle learning how to weave tapestries and dye yarn with plants, roots, and insects and the rest of my time in Oaxaca City. I got to see Oaxaca all dressed up for Christmas and spent time with new friends from my group house (I miss it already!).
Designing my weaving at Fé y Lola in Teotitlán
With master weaver at Fé y Lola in Teotitlán
Natural Dyes workshop with Gutierrez in Teotitlán del Valle.
Weave by Gutierrez Family in Teotitlán
I ate lots and lots of food and drank more mezcal than ever before, sometimes in cocktails. I met creators and innovators, using native corn to make whiskey and ancient techniques to make a rainbow of colors. I learned about the Zapotec peoples and was welcomed into the homes of strangers. I made memories that only I will be able to recall and had moments with people I may never see again. My decision to quit my well-paying job and take a little break before I run my own company was not without sacrifices, but it was definitely worth it.
Meal at La Cosecha
Pescadillas at Pochote Mercado
Meal at La Cosecha
Chocolate Atole at La Cosecha Mercado
Drink with Punch Drunk Shrubs at Convivo
Visit with Pierde Almas at their Tasting Room
The realities of living in Oaxaca are complicated. The cost of living is very low, but the salaries are as well, so having an income, or savings, in US dollars is a great asset. This makes me feel slimy and strange, but it is a fact. Seeing the effect of tourism and ex-pats on a historical and indigenous community was interesting -- it made me hopeful that traditions will continue to be passed on, but also scared that a bland overlay of Americanism will taint it.
I went to Mexico to learn about my own culture and Mexican heritage, but I also realized how privileged I am to be a fully-assimilated American with a college education living in a top city. Mexicans who do not have American residency or citizenship cannot travel freely to the USA. I can. I can travel freely to a lot of places just because I happened to be born in the USA. I have confirmed what I've known for a long time, but only recently have fully committed to, which is that it would be crazy not to develop my talents and use them to be the best I can be.
Market in Teotitlán del Valle
Mask workshop at Espacio Mezcal
I feel gross when I see people posting photos of their 'cultural' experiences in other places, using the local people and culture as a backdrop to their own self-expression. There's a lot of this going on right now and while I think it is great that more Americans are traveling and experiencing new things, I think it's important to remember that everyone has his or her own story, history, and culture and we must try to go deep and connect with the people in a place, not just suck out the best instagram photos and move on. I hope that my trip helped inspire someone to try something new or travel to a place unknown. I hope your travels are unplanned and vulnerable.
Globos in the Zócalo
In the Zócalo. Protestors took over the square. Photo by @samgraft